After Coco Chanel made suntan the height of fashion in the 1920s, self-tanning was one of the fastest growing sectors of the international cosmetic market. The first fake tan product was launched in the 1950s and 20 years later, Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) was approved for self-tanning by the FDA. In the 1980s, sunbeds became fashionable, only falling in popularity when their link with cancer was discovered.
Tanned skin has become a sign of health and well-being in recent decades. By using self-tanning products, it is possible to have a glowing skin all year long, while avoiding the risks from sun exposure.
Tanning is no longer seasonal, but is now part of everyday cosmetics, just like skin are or make-up. The customer, both women and men, is looking for a fast and natural-looking skin coloration.
To meet the growing demand for self-tanners, Givaudan has designed the first active self-tanner: Vegetan Premium Plus. Much more than a classic self-tanner, this ingredient results in a quick, natural and long-lasting tan while protecting the skin from oxidative stress.
Vegetan Premium plus is an optimized combination of Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and allomelanin. DHA, the absolute self-tanning reference, is naturally present in plant-, animal- and human cells and is obtained by fermentation process. Allomelanins are brown to black pigments, naturally produced by plants and microorganisms and are obtained by the enzymatic polymerization of caffeic acid. The self-tanning effect of Vegetan Premium Plus is due to the coloration of the skin horny layer. The DHA reacts with amines, peptides and amino-acids of the stratum corneum, creating brown polymers: melanoids. A reaction different from melanogenesis due to UV stimulation on the skin. Allomelanin interacts with the corneocytes to make the skin tone obtained with DHA look more natural. In addition, allomelanin protects the cells against oxidative stress due to Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). It has been demonstrated and patented that this product protects DNA from ROS damages.
The coloration is completely waterproof and only disappears when dead cells are removed from the stratum corneum.
INCI: Dihydroxyacetone, Melanin
Dosage: 1-3% for glowing, > 3% for self-tanning products