Beauty product consumers are looking for more natural products, as they see natural ingredients as safe and trustable. This ‘Natural’ mega-trend keeps growing in any culture and challenges the composition and origin of personal care ingredients.
Givaudan Active Beauty has crossed a new step with the switch from synthetic to natural salicylic acid production. They developed Neosalyl: a 100% natural origin salicylic acid, obtained by means of green fractionation from the natural essential oil of Wintergreen (Gaultheria spp.).
Salicylic acid is a β-hydroxy acid and has been classified as a phenolic aromatic acid. Being lipid-soluble, salicylic acid is miscible with the epidermal lipids and sebaceous gland lipids in hair follicles. It shows keratolytic and comedolytic properties and can also decrease sebum secretion.
Pure salicylic acid is used as an anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial and is listed as a natural preservative.
Due to its exfoliating properties, it is a safe and efficacious peeling agent for a large number of cosmetic purposes for skin and hair care.
Wintergreen plant (Gaultheria spp.) is a small shrub widely spread in some forest and is usually collected for the leaves rich in essential oil composed of methyl salicylate.
A gentle green fractionation process transforms the methyl salicylate by saponification followed by acidification and selective precipitation to obtain the pure natural salicylic acid.
Wintergreen leaves are collected in Southwest of China, in Yunnan province, by small farmers who locally and immediately produce the crude essential oil on fresh raw material. These small productions are collected to be homogenised and standardised into a 98% pure methyl salicylate essential oil. The entire supply chain is fully traceable from the point of harvest to the distillation trough a long-term cooperation with the farmers since many years.
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